Old Delhi Food Walk – A Mainstream Secret

old delhi ramzan food jama masjid

Before I moved to Delhi, the food community pages of the city were already sprawling with updates about Old Delhi’s food and the well kept secrets in the area. My first introduction to this part of Delhi and its food happened in the 2015. Before that, my knowledge was limited to a few places like the holy lassi of Mote Lala and the must avoid Paranthi Wali Gali. Slowly I was introduced to more places. In this quest, I also met people who were visiting here from places far away on a regular basis.

Chandni Chowk’s food trail is simple and yet very complicated. Simple because you don’t have to enter the lanes in the hunt of food (although if you try then you won’t be disappointed), complicated because after a plate of choley bhature or a glass of lassi, you won’t have any space in your stomach left to continue further.

Old Delhi Street food

Chandni Chowk food walk starts from Chandni Chowk metro station. You step out, walk a few steps and you’ll find yourself standing next to a small flee market. The roadside shops selling shirts, jackets, perfumes and regular household materials are a big hit. But you are not here to purchase stuff. This is the starting point of your food walk.

Delicacies of Old Delhi

Adjacent to this flee market, you’ll notice some choley bhature stalls. Avoid, because the star of the food walk is not here. Look a little further and you’ll find two or three shops selling pakodas. These shops are famous for something unique. Ram laddoo is a well-known snack loved by the Delhites. But the ones that are sold here are bigger than any you’ll every have in your life. Want to try something different, then ask for a plate of karele (bitter gourd) ka pakoda. Its speciality is that while kerala is very bitter, these pakodas do not leave any of that effect on your taste.


These pakodas go perfectly with a glass of sweet potato juice.

Old Delhi photos

Running since 1977, Lotan’s Choley has been pulling Delhites from faraway places. It is so popular that his stock finishes in minutes, the moment he sets his shop at 6 in the morning. His appetizing, spicy cholas are served with potatoes in a red hot curry, garnished with coriander and green chillies. He doesn’t have a shop but his popularity is so huge that one can tell you the address just by asking the name.

Mote Lala Lassi
The refreshing lassi from Mote Lala

Time has passed by but Mote Lala’s lassi has retained its charm. A glass of this yummy delight fills your stomach instantly. In summers, the visitors travel all the way from South Delhi (at-least I did), to have a glass of this lassi served in an earthen pot.

You’ll also find parathe wali gali somewhere here. Many travel websites make you believe that this is one of the best places to visit in Delhi, but trust me, the only thing that paranthe wali gali offers is a day filled with diarrhoea and added cholesterol. Paranthe wali gali is a must avoid.

Batla House Food Walk 2

On the winter mornings, the Old Famous Jalebi Wala becomes the star of Old Delhi. When these piping hot jalebis come out of the pot, the visitors standing around waste no time in taking bites and bites.

Natraj Chandni Chowk

Natraj Food and Snacks


Assuming that it is 10 and you have walked enough to digest that lassi and jalebi, it is the time to hit Natraj Café – Natraj Dahi Bhalla shop. This is again, one of the places which is generations old and needs a lot of patience to stand and wait for the order. This crispy snack with a portion of yogurt has a history that goes back to 1940. Apart from this, the aalu tikki is also a star of the establishment.

Where to find Daulat ki chaat Delhi

Daulat ki chaat chandni Chowk

Right next to Natraj, you’ll find some street side vendors selling Daulat ki Chaat. This sweet, milk and water based pudding has its origins from Uttar Pradesh. Following Daulat ki Chaat, you can visit the lemon soda shops, the most famous of which is the ved prakash lemon wale.

Dhokla in Delhi

Ved Parkash Lemon Wale

From here you continue further until you find a shop named Bhikharam’s, This shop is famous for its assortment of sweets and snacks, the most famous of which is the Manchurian dhokla. Right at the corner, you’ll find the famous Shiv Mishtan Bhandar. Their Bedami Puri and Aalu ki sabzi is a star attraction especially during the winter season. Shiv Mishtan is considered among one of the best places to eat in Delhi. Nagori Halwa is another Delhi cuisine without which, your visit to Chandni Chowk is incomplete.

Old Delhi food walk

Delhi food walk


Vegetarian food in old delhi

You walk towards Fatehpuri and take a right; you’ll be next to the legendary Giani di Hatti. The famous chain’s original (or semi original) shop. Famous for its choley bhature and lassi, Giani is the best way to give your trip a finale. Or better you take a detour and find Lala Duli Chand Naresh Gupta’s shop and try one of the kulfis. Their seasonal mango kulfi is one of the best. Apart from that you can also try rose and papad flavour kulfi here.

Giani's Chandni Chowk

Giani's Original Shop


This is just one corner of Old Delhi. The Jama Masjid side is buzzing with the amazing non-veg food and unlike Chandni Chowk’s morning buzz, these shops only open in the evening.

While the most casual visitors prefer visiting Kareem’s and Al Jawahar, those who know this place well will walk a little further and visit Aslam’s. His butter chicken is literally served in a bowl filled with butter. So if you have a thing for health and fitness, it is better to avoid this place. Otherwise, Aslam is a treat for the tastebuds.

Best non veg food of old delhi

Jama Masjid area is abuzz with small food stalls. From veg kebabs to biryani, everything is served in these hole-in-the-wall shops. The next stop will be Haji Mohd. Hussain which is famous for its fried chicken. A plate only costs you INR 100 and is served with a rumali roti.

old delhi ramzan food walk

You can take a right just before entering Matia Mahal and enter another small establishment called Fish Point. The fried fish here is something that you won’t find anywhere in Delhi. These flavorful, crispy bites of fried fishes are the best when tasted with rumali rotis.

Kallan Sweets Jama masjid

Paneer Jalebi - Jama Masjid Kallan

Your last stop of the walk should be at Kallan Sweets. A little hard to find, Kallan’s shop is located in the corner of Matia Mahal. You can try Khoya Samosa, Keema Samosa and Paneer ki Jalebi if you are not concerned a lot about your calories.

Of-course this list is just a small introduction to the many, hidden food joints of Delhi. Every foodie in Delhi has a personal list of favourite places and so is mine. There is something about Old Delhi’s food that despite regular visits, I keep returning and end up finding something new.

Follow my journey on Facebook and Instagram

Leave a Reply

This Post Has 21 Comments

  1. Kristie Probst

    I always get so overwhelmed at food markets like this. Your advice and analysis is super helpful to the uninitiated! Especially when you can refute what the travel websites say about a place that actually isn’t good.

  2. wegowithkids

    I can’t quite decide what’s more compelling, the amazing food or colors these photos evoke. I have never visited India before and you can bet your life these photos are a huge treat.

  3. Lucy Pinkstone

    This all looks wonderful! I love Indian food and I love street food so I would have been really spoiled for choice here. The streets of old Delhi are incredible too – so much life.

  4. lpinkstone79

    This all looks amazing! I love Indian food and I love street food so I would have been really spoiled for choice here. The streets of old Delhi are fascinating too.

  5. traveloptician

    I’m huge food lover and there are no better posts then about food for me haha. Love this one a lot! Great walk and all of there looks so delicious! I would get 5 kilos more there haha 🙂

  6. shreyasaha1987

    Such a delicious blog this is. You just made me feel so hungry. Chandni Chowk’s food trail OMG! I can live eating those chaats forever. Thanks for such an eye treat!

  7. Traveling Morion

    A perfect way to experience one destination is by eating with the locals! Walking down the streets of Delhi, tasting local dishes and doing photowalk is such a perfect experience.

  8. Alexander Popkov

    That us so, so good. Everything tastes better outside for some reason and the street food in Delhi looks delicious.

  9. It has always been on my radar to do a food adventure whenever I get to a new place. I love that you have mastered and very familiar, almost all the secret corners of food place in Old Delhi. I haven’t tried any of these foods, and I can’t wait to try each of them If I get the chance to visit Old Delhi soon. Truly, a plate of choley bhature or a glass of Lassi, would definitely make me really full, because it looks like it has a big serving.

  10. FS Page

    I have been on such a food tour walk in Indore and believe me it was one of the best days of my life. I was just wishing my stomach was bigger. I have heard a lot about Parathe wali gali and Chandni Chowk’s chhole bhature. Oh! All the photographs look so yummy. I should go and grab a bite to eat now! Wonderful info though. I would like to try out all these Khau galis in Delhi some day.

  11. Blair Villanueva

    OMG you making us so hungry with your street food story! This what I love about travel – we need to try these local foods to complete the whole local experience, and also help local economy.

  12. You just took me back to memory lane. During my studies in Delhi, I spent a lot of holidays roaming around these lanes. Lalan’s Choley, Mote Lala Lassi and Jalebi were surely the best. I also liked the fried chicken. A place full of history and mystery with so much for the tastebuds – that’s why dariyagunj and chandi chawk are so close to my heart.

  13. Rafael Sánchez

    Your pics made me hungry!! haha When I was there I´ve been only to the train station to catch the train to another city but after reading your post I have to come back!!

    1. ansh997x

      You should certainly pay a visit next time.

  14. Medha Verma

    Oh the street food in Chandni Chowk! You’ve really detailed out some great foods to try and the best places to try them! I love karele ka pakoda but I don’t think I have tried sweet potato juice ever. Also, I love chholey bhature. Not a fan of jalebi, although I know you can find some of the best sweets in Chandi Chowk. Thanks for all these lovely suggestions!

    1. ansh997x

      It will certainly be a great experience to be a part of. Try some new places on your next visit.