Khajuraho – Conversations with Stones

Khajuraho – Conversations with Stones

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My blog’s title might catch attention of a few perverts but let me assure you that it’s not what it sounds like.

My introduction to Khajuraho happened last year when a few friends I met in Banaras invited me to Khajuraho and I joined them on a road trip. I made some excellent friends during my 15 days of stay and left collecting a lot of memories. For me Khajuraho was never about the erotic temples but instead about the people and their stories.

Khajuraho is a weird place, I have met moral police advocating that the temples should be closed permanently as they are spreading a wrong message about Indian culture. I have seen people running after foreigners for money, Indian guys begging foreigners for a picture with them and I have been disgusted by the amount of ogling and eve teasing that happens here and no one says a word. Guess the monument is only protected and not the ones who visit here.

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I was accompanied with the same group of students and we started out Khajuraho tour with the Western group of temples in the morning. We met our guide in the hotel and he was really experienced and knew his stuff.

The outer walls of the temples contain erotic art and sculpture which have no involvement with the Gods and deities. It’s a common mistake that the erotica involves sacred heavenly  figures, rather, the depictions are created featuring the ‘apsaras’ or nymphs and their male counterparts. Even there are figures which  can be recognized as kings and queens. Though the sexual carvings often made people  think these temples as stone interpretation of Vātsyāyana‘s   ‘Kamasoutra’   but there is hardly any link. This burst of creativity , The Khajuraho, is a splendor in itself.

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The temples are made primarily by using sandstone. The designs and architecture is truly remarkable. There are temples of the Chausath Yogini , Brahma, Shiva, Varaha, Surya, Vamana and Vishnu. The technology and architecture used for building these temples were much ahead of the time.

The best part of the temple excursion was the burst of laughter and the comments that used to followed by every time our guide would show them a statue or a carving that is erotic and the comments that used to follow by were simply hilarious. For me as usual the fun was not exploring the temple but the people I was with.

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When you ask a guide about these carvings the most common answer you’ll get is ” bade bade log hazar baatein kehte hain, mujhe to yehi samajh mein aata hain ki ye tasviren kehte hain ke bhagwan ke mandir mein jaane se pehle sab basna  aur kamna bahar choDke jana chahiye” . I guess that makes sense, but still the amount of creativity in the people who made these sculptures would fail this generation’s porn filmmakers.

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Although the most popular way to go around these groups of temples is bicycles but only when you are traveling alone or in a small group.  The Eastern group consists of the Hindu temples like the Hanuman and Brahma Temples and a walled enclosure housing the Jain Temples.  The Parsvanath and Adinath temples here are some of the finest examples of Jain temple architecture seen anywhere in India.

After exploring the Eastern group of temples our group returned to the hotel for check out. We had lunch at Café Mediterrano that consisted of amazing pastas and pizzas and then left the place with a promise to return again. The entire trip atleast for me was amazing, otherwise where do you get so many faces, characters and stories to see at one place.

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  1. Anusia

    This is one of the famous ancient place in India. The temple carries a lot of histories with itself. Thanks for sharing this place’s review.